What is No Feed Back Steering Boat

Author Topic:   No Feedback Steering
Chivato Montauk posted 09-29-2004 11:36 AM ET (US)Profile for Chivato MontaukSend Email to Chivato Montauk
Just found this board and it is great! I recently bought an 1985 Montauk 170. I just re-engined with a 2004 Yamaha 4-cycle 75 hp. I've adjusted the steering trim tab to the stop, with the trailing edge to the starboard, and I still have significant "pull" to the right. My questions: did I adjust the tab backwards? I'm seriously thinking about installing a no feedback system, but since the boat is stored 650 miles away (in Baja), does anyone know what length cable sytem I need to buy for this boat/engine combo?
Joe Kriz posted 09-29-2004 11:47 AM ET (US) Profile for Joe KrizSend Email to Joe Kriz
Chivato,

Welcome aboard on this site.

First of all you have a Montauk 17.... Not a 170 as the first 170 was built in late 2002...

As far as the steering cable length, see this thread among many others available if you do a search for steering cable length.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/007128.html

I also believe you did adjust your trim tab in the wrong direction.
Try setting the trim tab straight ahead in the beginning and adjust it a notch or 2 at a time until you get the tension even at the helm when cruising at your usual speed.

Joe Kriz posted 09-29-2004 11:56 AM ET (US) Profile for Joe KrizSend Email to Joe Kriz
My mistak on the trim tab. Not enough coffee yet to wake me up.

I believe you were turning it in the correct direction.. Sounds like you may have some other problems.

When you are curising along and the up and down trim is adjusted properly, your steering wheel should be just as easy to turn in either direction. If it is harder to turn to the right, then you should adjust the trim tab on the cavitation plate to the right (starboard). If you cannot do this, your engine may be set too low or the lower skeg on the engine may be slightly bent.

The steering wheel will be harder to turn one direction or the other if you are not on plane and trimmed out properly.

Chivato Montauk posted 09-29-2004 01:14 PM ET (US) Profile for Chivato MontaukSend Email to Chivato Montauk
Joe -
Thanks for the information. I thought I had adjusted the tab correctly, following the Yamaha book, but it was counter-intuitive to adjust to the right to fix a right steering problem. The Yam dealer wasn't a big help since the boat was 650 miles away. They recommended the SS147 system, 4.2 turns lock-to-lock vice the SS132 system which is 3.0 turns lock-to-lock. From the other posts, I guess 18' is length, although I see some mention of 17' cables.
Thanks again,
Steve
ratherwhalering posted 09-29-2004 02:07 PM ET (US) Profile for ratherwhaleringSend Email to ratherwhalering
Steve:
Get the SS132. The SS147 is recommended for 115+ HP engines. If the trailing edge of your trim tab is to starboard, then your leading edge is pointed to port. If you boat pulls to starboard, which it should, then the leading edge needs to be pointed starboard, and the trailing edge to port. I believe the trim tab needs to be pointed beyond center, toward the direction of the pull.
Chivato Montauk posted 09-29-2004 04:57 PM ET (US) Profile for Chivato MontaukSend Email to Chivato Montauk
Ratherwhaling:
Thanks for the input. I see now that the SS147 is for larger boats. So much for the dealer's help. I tend to agree with you on the tab. As a small rudder, the tab fin moved to the right would seem to make the boat steer more to the right. However, the Yamaha book clearly states (and shows in the illustration): if "the boat tends to veer to the right (starboard side), turn to the right the fin of the trim tab" Hmmmmm. I'll be trying both directions.
Steve
Clark Roberts posted 09-30-2004 05:46 AM ET (US) Profile for Clark RobertsSend Email to Clark Roberts
Turning the tab's trailing edge to the right makes engine turn to right and this turns the boat to the left! Therefore if boat pulls to the right then moving the trailing edge of tab to the right is proper procedure. Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
ratherwhalering posted 09-30-2004 05:23 PM ET (US) Profile for ratherwhaleringSend Email to ratherwhalering
Once again, you are correct Mr. Roberts! I think I made the same mistake Joe did earlier...not enough coffee. Thanks.
Clark Roberts posted 10-02-2004 06:26 AM ET (US) Profile for Clark RobertsSend Email to Clark Roberts
Reguarding "no feedback" steering (either mechanical or hydraulic): It is not intended to negate the requirement for proper fin adjustment as too much constant pressure on steering cable and connections could lead to a failure. I have two hyd. steering systems and one mechanical (Uniflex) no feedback systems and the mechanical unit (planetary gear system) is a bit stiffer (harder to turn) than a std. (ring and pinion) steering system but it is superb in its operation and wheel always remains where last positioned. This system is on a Montauk with 60hp Merc but was installed when boat had a 90hp Merc that would torque the wheel no matter tab position. If I was replacing a steering system or had hard pulling condition I would go with the no feedback system. No feedback seems to be a safer system in any case. happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
Chivato Montauk posted 10-03-2004 06:17 PM ET (US) Profile for Chivato MontaukSend Email to Chivato Montauk
Thanks for all the help. I bought the Teleflex Safe T II, SS132, system from West Marine today (only because they were offering 20% off and I had a $10 certificate). I'll be installing it in 2 weeks when I get back to the boat which is stored at my casita in Baja. Then it will be a month+ fishing/diving the Sea of Cortez. Can't wait.
Steve
Chuck Tribolet posted 10-03-2004 11:03 PM ET (US) Profile for Chuck TriboletSend Email to Chuck Tribolet
Chivato: Don't forget:

Grease, marine grade.

A 1/8" nylon messenger line. Use the old cable to pull the
messenger forward, then use the messenger to pull the new
cable back.

Steering wheel pulling stuff.

BIG wrenches, including a big crescent.

1/2" dowel and some a rag to swab out the inside of the
tilt tube.

Tiewraps.

I'd see if you can get a look at a similar boat and think
through anything else you'll need.


Chuck

ratherwhalering posted 10-04-2004 06:29 PM ET (US) Profile for ratherwhaleringSend Email to ratherwhalering
Got one! Caulk to reseal the bilge/sump cover screws.

frankthiche38.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/007148.html

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